Showing posts with label Trek 614. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Trek 614. Show all posts

Sunday, September 29, 2013

Brooks Cambium C17 Update: It's a Keeper


A few weeks ago I mentioned that I had just received one of Brooks' new Cambium C17 saddles. Since then I've logged a few hundred miles on the C17, so I suppose it's time for a more proper review.

The C17 has bounced around among three of my bikes as I've tried to figure out what kind of riding it's best suited for. It started out on my Bianchi Volpe that generally get's used for off road stuff, spent a few days on my Trek 760 in full roadie mode, and eventually settled in on my Trek 614, the randoneuse. All three of these bikes have the handlebars set at least 4 cm below the saddle, so I have yet to try the C17 on a bike with a more upright position.

The rides I've done on the C17 have ranged from short hilly intense training rides, to several-hours-long gravel road adventures, to lazy daily commutes to work. I had a chance to ride it on sweaty hot days, and cool drizzly ones. The longest ride I've used it for was a little over 80 miles.


In the riding I've done on the C17, it has mostly disappeared beneath me. That is to say, I didn't really notice it after the first few minutes of the ride. To me, that's the greatest compliment you can pay to a saddle.

Notice I said, "mostly disappeared." In the first couple of rides on the C17, I was a little distracted by its "stickiness." Not sticky like honey, but the texture of the top of the saddle grabs onto the seat of your pants pretty well, especially when you're wearing spandex riding shorts. If you're used to the slipperiness of a classic leather saddle like a Brooks B17, you'll probably notice this right away. However, the C17 is far from the stickiest saddle I've ever ridden (that distinction would go to a cheap plastic Performance house-brand torture device). I spend a lot of time riding leather Brooks saddles, so I'm quite used to being able to easily shift my position on the saddle without lifting my bum at all. The C17 requires that I put a little more effort into shifting positions, but once in the right position I tend to stay there better. After some time on the C17 I came to consider the texture as more of a feature than a defect and quickly stopped noticing it at all. On my Brooks Pro on the other hand, I still sometimes find myself sliding around a little more than I'd like.


Early on I also noticed that my riding shorts would catch a bit on the chamfered edges along the nose of the saddle. This soon became a non-issue not simply because I stopped noticing it, but because it stopped happening. My guess is the exposed rubber edge where the cotton fabric ends is a bit grabby when fresh out of the box, but after grinding in a bit of sweat and road dirt, the grabbiness goes away.

The C17 achieves long distance comfort in exactly the same way a classic leather Brooks saddle does it. The suspended vulcanized rubber/cotton canvas/textile top feels quite firm to the touch, but it gives slightly under the weight of your sit bones. The firmness of the C17 is very similar to that of a year old Brooks B17 I have, but it's not as firm as my Brooks Pro (which is also fairly new but broken in). With a classic Brooks, the leather eventually retains the impression of your sit bones even when you're not on it. This hasn't started to happen with the C17 and it seems unlikely that it will ever happen.


I spent some time in a typical Seattle drizzle on one of my rides. I was riding my Trek 760 at the time which is proudly fenderless. (Riding a bike without fenders in Seattle is a sure-fire way to bring on the rain.) The C17 was of course soaked and covered with road grit. Had I been riding my B17 or Team Pro I would have been digging through garbage cans beside the road looking for plastic bags to cover the saddle so I wouldn't ruin it. With the C17, I had no worries. I hosed off the road grit when I got home and the saddle was as good as new.

One commenter on my previous post mentioned that when the top of the saddle gets wet, it doesn't easily wipe dry. This is true. The cotton textured top holds onto water better than your typical plastic saddle. So, if you park your bike outside in the rain and then hop on in your street clothes, you'll end up looking like you wet your pants. This hasn't been an issue for me as my bikes tend to be parked under cover when I'm not riding them, but if you park your bike outside you may want to cover the saddle to keep it dry.

The same commenter also complained of the rivets on the back of the saddle being uncomfortable. So far, I've never felt the rivets at all. Perhaps it's more noticeable if you ride with a more upright position? My position seems to be well in front of the rivets.


As I mentioned before, the C17 has settled on my Trek 614 for now. That's the bike that usually gets ridden on brevets and other long rides so it has to have a saddle that is comfortable from sunrise to sunset and beyond. It still hasn't been tested on a ride of more than 80 miles, but from my experience so far I'm confident that it will be at least as comfortable on long rides as the B17 it's replacing.


For sportier short rides like the kind I tend to do on my Trek 760 the C17 worked well. But with the deeper handlebar drop that bike has, I suspect a narrower saddle might work even better. I'm anxiously awaiting the introduction of the Cambium C15. Brooks claims it will be a narrower version based on the classic racing model, the Swallow. Sounds like just the ticket.

Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Evolution of the Budget Randonneuse

I've been into randonneuring for five years now, and in each of those years I've used a different bike as my main brevet bike. I guess you could say I'm a bit of a commitment-phobic serial monogamist when it comes to bikes. With each new bike, I start off the relationship thinking that this bike is "the one." "This is the bike I'm going to grow old with," I'd think as I gazed lovingly at its slender chainstays and gracefully curving fork. But eventually something better comes along.

In 2009 I started randonneuring on a Gunnar Sport which was a light and sporty bike, but turned out to be a little small for me.

In 2010 I had a Surly Cross Check, the original "budget randonneuse." It was a good sturdy, practical bike, but it sort of rode like a tank.

In 2011 I replaced the Surly with a VO Randonneur which was lighter, livelier and more elegant, though it wasn't without its quirks.

In 2012 I rode my 1982 Trek 311 set up as a single speed. The idea was to complete the SR series on the Trek and then go back to riding my VO on brevets. But after riding that old Trek almost exclusively for the first half of 2012, I found that the VO didn't do it for me anymore. It was that humble old Trek that I wanted to continue spending my time with. The Trek fit me better than any bike I've ever owned before. The handling was exactly what I wanted out of a brevet bike. It could handle fenders and wide tires. I liked the way it looked. The only problem was that it was a single speed and I really wanted to keep it that way, but some brevets call for a bike with gears. The obvious solution was to find myself another bike just like my Trek 311, and then set it up with a multispeed drive train. It would be like having my old Trek with a convertible drive train that could flip from single speed to multispeed depending on my mood.

One of the many great things about these old Trek bikes from the 80s is that on any given day you can't swing a dead cat on Seattle Craig's List without hitting two or three of them. It took a few weeks to find the right model in the right size, but eventually I found exactly what I was looking for: a 1982 Trek 614.


The price was right (I don't remember exactly, but it was something under $300), and the condition was near perfect. It still had the original tires with plenty of rubber left so it was obvious it hadn't been ridden more than a few hundred miles in its life. All of the original parts were there right down to the bottle cage and Trek logo water bottle just like in the 1982 catalog picture.


Other than the chainstays being a centimeter longer, the geometry of the Trek 614 is identical to the that of the 311. But better yet, the 614 is built with higher quality tubing throughout, making it a bit lighter than the 311 and giving it a "livelier" ride. The difference in ride quality is surprisingly noticeable. Jumping hard on the pedals of the 614 is like plucking the low E string of a good acoustic guitar. The energy you get back is greater than what you put into it.


I went for a couple rides with the 614 in its original configuration, but as usual, it wasn't long before I tore it apart down to the bare frame and started rebuilding it with my own mongrel assortment of parts.


Some of the parts came from the VO, others are original to the Trek and a couple are brand new acquisitions.


Now days, the drive train is the same crazy mix of Shimano, Campagnolo, Sram and Suntour that worked so well on my Trek 560. None of the parts are exotic or expensive, but they all work together well and make for a very functional and reliable bike that is still easy to ride after a long day or two in the saddle.


I've ridden the 614 on a full super randonneur series this year as well a Flèche. As I had hoped, it has everything I love about that old single speed Trek 311 and more. I was able to set new personal best times on the 200k, 400k and 600k brevets. I can't say for sure that the bike makes me faster, but clearly it's not holding me back.


Will I remain any more faithful to this bike over time than I have been to the others? That's hard to say, as I'm still deep in the honeymoon phase. But for now this old craigslist Trek is the randonneuse of my dreams.


Here are the build details for you gearheads:

Frame/Fork: 1982 Trek 614 (Reynolds 531 main triangle, Ishiwata Magny 10 Manganese stays and fork blades, Ishiwata CCL semi-sloping fork crown, Nikko lugs, Suntour GS forged dropouts)
Headset: Original Trek Micro-adjust
Rear Wheel: Ultegra hub/Mavic Open Pro rim 32 spokes
Front Wheel: Schmitt Son28 hub/Mavic Open Pro, 32 Wheelsmith XL14 spokes
Stem: Original SR Custom Alloy
Handlebars: Original SR Custom Alloy
Brakes: Tektro "standard reach" dual pivot calipers (brake bridge and fork drilled to allow modern recessed nut attachment)
Shifters/Brake Levers: Campagnolo Veloce ErgoPower 10 speed levers
Crankset: Sugino Alpina compact crankset with 48/34 rings
Bottom Bracket: IRD
Front Derailer: SunTour Cyclone Mk II
Rear Derailer: Shimano 105
Cassette: SRAM 8 speed 11-28 PG-850
Tires: Continental Gran Prix 4 Season 700c x 28
Seatpost: VO Grand Cru
Saddle: Brooks B17
Fenders: VO polished aluminum 45mm
Front Rack: VO Rando rack mounted with P clamps
Lighting: Rear: PB Superflash. Front: B&M IQ Cyo mounted on the front rack
Bar tape: Black cork
Pedals: Shimano SPDs
Handlebar bag: VO Campagne
Computer: VDO MC 1.0